Journal

So, this site was made it in the summer of 2001. Marlene right now is in Costa Rica and Omar is living in Montreal. Currently he is searching for more travelling. Anyways, back to a couple of years ago, that was the idea of the Ecoadventures.

"We began planning a new journey for 2001, having established our project with a common denominator. The idea of travelling is very powerful but at the same time we want to continue with the project to spread the ecological message to different latitudes. Omar has travelled through over thirty countries by bicycle, participating in ecological conferences, speaking to schools, forums and officials to bring awareness of the global need to keep our air clean, and of the bike as a viable transportation alternative. Certainly Marlene has her rhythm and individual values and she is in accord with the spirit of the expedition.

And so the next adventure is born!"<

TRAVEL REPORT. 2001 European Bicycle Trip.
(Last Update: October 17, 2001.)

Germany

Day 1 - Dusseldorf. Wednesday, May 9 - 2001.

Landed in Dusseldorf at 2 in the afternoon. Loaded bikes with air in tires and cargo and started on our way. First German beer on the way. Omar's back tire exploded at service station and it started pouring rain. Pizza restaurant across the street. Bicycling along the Rhine River in early evening. Found hostel in beautiful neighbourhood across the way-had free showers & use of washroom. Found beautiful camping spot along Rhine at 2 a.m.

Day 2 - Wurlingen. Thursday, May 10 - 2001.

Hot sunny day. Met a German frau washing her windowsills outside. She offered us a bottle of apple juice & first taste of mineral water, speaking German non-stop. Very sweet lady but didn't understand a word she said. Met Fergus Quigley, a bicycler equipped like us, who had just travelled from Russia and found the pristine bike paths of Germany less of a challenge. Stopped for ice cream in Wurlingen, a beautiful little village with lovely old architecture. Camped behind Jack's house and was treated to beer with lime, snacks and shower/washroom while enjoying a pleasant evening with Jack and daughter, Julie.

Day 3 - Cologne. Friday, May 11 - 2001.

Bicycled to Cologne (Koln)Interview with local "Express" newspaper. Evening along the Rhein with many people enjoying beer in restaurants or sitting in park. Being rescued by Guido late at night who took us to a park to set up tents.

Day 4. - Cologne. Saturday, May 12 - 2001.

REM live benefit concert at Koln Cathedral, 80,000 people in attendance. Stayed at Station Backpackers Hostel, just two blocks from the action. Marlene's first experience sleeping in a room with four strangers!

Day 5. - Cologne. Sunday, May 13 - 2001.

Met a Paraguayan couple and their friend, Matilda. Had a delicious vegetarian dinner & camped behind the apartment.

Day 6. - Hurth - Monday, May 14 - 2001.

Stopped at Planet Hurth to get out of the rain. Enjoyed some German beer and got caught up on the writing. Rescued from another deluge by Edith and Friedhelm & spent the night at their place.

Day 7. - Untermaubach. Tuesday, May 15 - 2001

Stopped at an optometrist shop to get Omar's sunglass frames fixed and met Ylle, a gracious lady who fixed the frames for free and invited us to stay at her place. Met her friend, Roswitha and Roswitha's son, Julian, and enjoyed a delightful evening in their company.

Day 8. - Schevenhutte. Wednesday, May 16 - 2001.

Hills, hills and more hills. A nice guy, Viktor, stops to tell us about a bike path we can take. Invited us for pizza and to stay at his place but we never made it. Too bad! Ended up at Hotel Roeb with the Cale family who treated us to a delicious Croatian dinner and a room at the hotel. A very nice break!

Day 9. - Eschweiler. Thursday, May 17 - 2001.

Met Kris and Brigitte at their Fotohaus when we stopped to get some films developed. They gave us free film and called their friends on the local papers to come and interview us. Had two interviews and then stayed in the guest room for the night.

Day 10. - Stolberg. Friday, May 18 - 2001.

Stolberg is a wonderfully interesting village with delightful architecture. They call cities of 50,000 villages in Germany. Saw the Stolberg Castle, had a tour of the oldest Lutheran Church west of the Rhine with Antonio & Inge Pineda. Met Gunther who invited us to sleep at his place. Barbara & Lothar Pfuller invited us all to dinner and more schnapps than we could take. Floated home happy.

Day 11. - Stolberg. Saturday, May 19 - 2001.

Invited to spend another day at Gunther's. Went to the Communion service at the Evangelische Church and got front row seats beside Gunther, the organist. Cooked up a feast for our host of chicken stew and roasted chicken with potatoes. Drank wine and found out more about each other in the evening. Pre-dinner drinks with Barbara & Lothar.

Day 12. - Aachen. Sunday, May 20 - 2001.

Our first view of the Dom/Cathedral in Aachem. Had our requisite ice cream cone and took a look inside the church. Very tall, blue stained glass with a medieval look. Met Qiong and Ling from China and went off with them. Got Omar's laptop fixed and stayed the night with Qiong. We'd been craving Chinese food and enjoyed a delicious Chinese buffet with our new friends.

Day 13. - Aachen. Monday, May 21 - 2001.

Stayed an extra day in Aachem because we found a film company who would develop our films for free. Picked up copies of a newspaper article in which we were featured. Spent the afternoon at a fitness spa where Omar used the weight equipment and sauna. Spent the night at Alexiander Kloster, a type of recovery house. Brother Kamillo took us in, letting us camp in the pretty garden and treating us to dinner and breakfast. We went out for the evening and met our Chinese friends again.

The Netherlands.

Day 14. - Wittem. Tuesday, May 22 - 2001.

Marlene woke up at 4 a.m. freezing cold. Turned into a bronchial thing. Brother Kamillo gave us two blankets for the road. Met a very fit and avid bicycling grandpa on the outskirts of Aachem who decided to adopt us for part of the trip towards Holland. We didn't really know where we were going but followed him and ended up onto a beautiful bike trail that opened up onto a spectacular view of Aachem from on high. Several kilometres later, we found ourselves in Holland, having crossed the border in a field somewhere. We lost our anonymous friend somewhere outside of Vaals and continued on until we met Dave & Sandy who invited us to stay for the night.

Day 15. - Wittem. Wednesday, May 23 - 2001.

Left Dave & Sandy's early in the morning before they left for work and bicycled about two blocks to the Wittem Monastery where we were taken in by Father Herman Peters, a congenial and delightful host who did everything possible to make our stay pleasant. A wonderful retreat and a chance to wash clothes, relax and organize our affairs. We each had separate suites and were treated to meals with the brethren.

Day 16. - Wittem. Thursday, May 24 - 2001.

Our stay with the brethren continues as we attempt to finish our washing and enjoy the rest. It's Ascension Day in the parish which is a once-a-year event where the 7-year olds complete their communion. We are feted to a wine lunch with several courses. Several of the brothers tell us we are lucky to partake of this special event and of course it is so. We spend a quiet evening in the guest lounge playing cards and enjoying the monastery's brewery beer. We are not anxious to leave and want to savour every moment. Father Herman shows us the book written about him and some of the miracles that habeen reported in the area.

Day 17. - Wittem-Maastricht. Friday, May 25 - 2001.

We say our last goodbyes, have our last meal at the Monastery, pack up and head towards Maastricht, Holland. Found an idyllic country path where dozens of holidaygoers were also enjoying the May long weekend. How wonderful to be in the peace and quiet off the beaten path from cars. The weather was warm and sunny and it felt like a gift to be out on such a day. At one point we found ourselves at the corner of three farm fields where a bike trail map told us exactly where we were. Holland is a bicyclers' paradise. Got to Maastricht late afternoon. Omar got a flat tire soon after but fixed it in a park and then we put up our tents by the MAAS River in the courtyard of a church. Pere Tardier gave us beer and a deluxe snack and we picnicked by moonlight. Had to climb the wall to get back in because they had locked the door so we would be safe!

Belgium

Day 18. - Maastricht, The Netherlands. - Rossmere, Belgium. Saturday, May 26 - 2001.

Had coffee and breakfast with Pere Tardier in his presbytery. The shower was wonderful and Pere Tardier gave Marlene those cute little handmuffs they use to wash in Holland. Downtown Maastricht is amazing. It was filled with people having drinks and food in restaurant terraces. The shops were busy. We ate herring and fresh fish in the market and went to a basilica in Maastricht from the Middle Ages. On the way out of town, a journalist for the local paper, Jasper, stopped us on the road, having noticed the sign on the back of Omar's trailer advertising the world tour, and asked to do an interview. We agreed and repaired to a nearby tavern. Then we left town and travelled in the Holland countryside where we found a terrific bike path that took us right into Belgium. The trails here continued and it was wonderful to bicycle in the quiet countryside. We met Jeannine and Alexander who invited us to stay in their home in Rossmere.

Day 19. - Rossmere - Martinslinde. Sunday, May 27 - 2001.

We had coffee and breakfast with the Haubaer-Vrancken family before we left Rossmere. The peaceful Belgium countryside continued. At Alden Biesen Castle we found a great place to spend an afternoon. Mozart in the Park was happening that day so we were treated to an entry to the classical quartet playing the 3:30, after a hearty meal in the dispensary. We met Jan, the ice cream man, on our way out. He's learning Spanish and was happy to practise with Omar. We put our tents in his lovely backyard.

Day 20. - Martinslinde - Tongeren. Monday, May 28 - 2001.

We left Jan after coffee and the usual bread breakfast and bicycled through the peacful country until we arrived at Tongeren, the oldest city in Belgium. Our first impression was a bit negative, after having spent so much time in the country. Omar got his sunglasses fixed and we continued into the city where the streets began to look more interesting. We also started meeting people who spoke French! At the public library, we used the internet for an hour and a half and then found the local hostel where we were treated to a spontaneous round of English country dancing by a troupe of 50 Britishers staying at the hostel. We shared our room with a charming couple from Holland who were bicycling to the south of France. We have met several couples already who spend a few weeks a year on bicycling vacations. Marlene's birthday was celebrated by a gala meal out in the main square at a terrace cafe.

Day 21. - Tongeren - Rullingen Castle. Tuesday, May 29 - 2001.

Left the hostel and decided to do some sightseeing in this interesting city. Went to the Gallo-Roman Museum and did the tour which included viewing the Asterix display. On the way to Kuttekoven we met an interesting man named Jean Loix who spoke at least three languages, making it refreshingly easy to communicate. After a stop at his place for soup and cookies, we pressed on and soon came to 'Tooties', an attractive restaurant where we stopped for cervezas and lunch. Some bicyclers were interested in our travels and we talked with them for awhile. The food was absolutely delicious and, fortified, we headed out again, enjoying the delightful Belgium countryside once more. At Tavern de Klee we met a friendly waiter, Ronny, who took an interest in our adventure. We enjoyed his company and conversation while enjoying cervezas and peanuts. Then it was time to think of stopping for the night. A kilometre or two up the road we found Rullingen Castle and were given permission to camp for the night in one of the many huge white tents which graced the grounds in preparation for the plant and flower festival the coming weekend.

Day 22/23. - Rullingen - Hoepertingen. Wednesday, May 30 & Thursday, May 31 - 2001.

We stopped to look for a place for breakfast and discovered Kasteel Mariagaarde in Hoepertingen. Before long we were installed, each in our own room, in the tower building. For our beds and meals we worked in the rose garden, weeding. The nuns who manage and live in the castle were pleased with our work and when we suggested staying longer to help dig up the garden which was partly gone to seed, they agreed.

Day 24. - Hoepertingen (Belgium). Friday, June 1 - 2001.

We have moved to the huge dormitory with a choice of 11 beds to sleep. In exchange for our room and board we are continuing to work for our keep in the kitchen and the garden. It's very pleasant and enjoyable as well as satisfying to see the results of our labours and the time spent in one place gives us a chance to recharge our batteries. The sisters are very pleasant. Today Sister Maria had us weeding the flower garden plus kitchen duty for Marlene. The scratches from the rose garden are still bright red but the sun is shining and it's fun to be outside. Omar takes Sister Maria for a ride on the bike. We have quickly become accustomed to the three meals a day and enjoy being able to just arrive and have food ready. Here, and in many places we've passed, the big meal of the day is at noon. This is offset by the relentless bread/cheese/sliced meat that forms the other two meals of the day.

Day 25. - Hoepertingen. Saturday, June 2 - 2001.

Omar has tapped into his latent creative talents as a painter. The white tarp which has functioned as a camping tool now has the added function of being an advertisement for the Ecoadventures Project. While Omar paints every chance he can get, Marlene works on the book. The day is cold and wet so Sister Maria has us cleaning out a very messy and chaotic storage area for wood. It's an all-day job but we get it done by lunch, after a superhuman effort to get the afternoon free. Siesta's have now become part of the daily routine. It's Saturday night in the village so we go for a walk to the local pub. The smoke is thick and all conversation stops as these two strangers walk in. They do not accept Holland guilders. The pub across the street is a carbon copy so we return home and purchase beers from the nuns and play rummy.

Day 26. - Hoepertingen. Sunday, June 3 - 2001

It's Pentecost Sunday and after breakfast the nuns are out of sight and we are left to our own devices for the day. No work, which is cause for celebration but no food either, which is not. Mother Superior takes pity on us and gives us some bread and jam to get us through the day. As it's pouring rain we forego our plans to sightsee although Marlene takes one of the convent bikes to tour the town while Omar siestas. Every three blocks, the village limits appear. The garrett has turned quite cold. Mother Superior advises that the heat is turned off for the season so Marlene spends a lot of time searching for warm places or huddled under blankets.

Day 27. - Monday, June 4 - 2001.

Pentecost continues and with the village stores closed down and the Kasteel devoid of the presence of the nuns, it seems strangely lonesome and boring. We take the bikes to the next town. The area is full of strawberry fields and we can't resist stopping and picking the ripe fruit. Yum. To our amazement, we find an internet cafe open in the next big town. We meet a Count, tour some castle grounds and come home.

Day 28. - Hoepertingen. Tuesday, June 5 - 2001.

We finally start digging up the garden. It's a pleasant day and the work goes well. Sister Maria works alongside us in the garden part of the time. She's pleased when we get the one side of the garden done by lunchtime, and would like us to keep working in the afternoon but we've realized we left a floppy at the internet cafe and have to go. On the way, we stop at the Magic Shop and have an interesting time with the town witch, Annie, a very neat lady. Sister Maria manages to twig Omar's guilt buttons and he agrees to spend his evening working in the garden. After kitchen duty, Marlene brings him beer and provides moral support while he labours until nightfall.

Day 29. - Wednesday, June 6 - 2001.

Our last day at the Kasteel. We finish digging up the garden plus some other tasks and then it's time to start packing to leave, a job that takes well into the late evening. We have been served a bottle of expensive wine with our meal, a nice treat. Tragedy has struck, however, in that the floppy disk picked up from the cafe no longer has some important documents on it. We work on the computer a long time trying to recuperate what we've lost, but to no avail.

Day 30. - Zoutleeuw. Thursday, June 7 - 2001.

We took a group picture of the sisters before we left and got an early start right after breakfast. A wet day which is always an excuse to stop for a beer to get out of the rain. By late afternoon we were in a little town called Zolteeuw where we found internet access in a library. It was still wet outside and cold so we decided to look for indoor accomodation and, through the nuns at the convent, found a very comfortable billet for the night with a delightful couple, Leo and Lena, who have a big home in the country. Amazingly, we have stopped in the very town where an old friend of Omar's grew up. Leo knows the friend and we get his address and telephone number in Leuven.

Day 31. - Leuven. Friday, June 8 - 2001.

The countryside is magical and the day has lots of sun. We stop along the bike path in a secluded spot and spend a couple hours relaxing. These are the moments that make the trip worthwhile. Eventually we get to Tienen, a very picturesque little city and end up staying there a long time. By the time we leave, it's early evening and starting to rain. Omar phones his friend, Bert, who comes to pick us up in his truck. We finish up the hamburger and fry meal made for us by a kind farming couple and head into Leuven with Bert.

Day 32. - Leuven. Saturday, June 9 - 2001

We've gotten up with Bert, Karen and their two boys. It's sunny and Omar goes off with Bert and the boys for a ride with the bike trailer. Then it's sight seeing time. The City Hall is an amazing gothic edifice. We set up the project display close by and spend a few hours talking to people and distributing flyers. Omar and Bert head off for the night to a Sonic Youth concert in Ghent while Marlene and Karen spend the evening getting to know each other. The guys have taken their sleeping bags for this all night excursion to a city hours away.

Day 33. - Sunday, June 10 - 2001

Omar and Bert arrive early and then the family leaves for a reunion in the home village. It's a lazy day - a chance to catch up on sleep, wash clothes, cook, watch TV, etc. When Karen and Bert come back in the evening, we spend an enjoyable evening looking at old photos.

Day 34. - Monday, June 11 - 2001

Karen and Bert go to work and Omar and Marlene head out to run errands. Being in one place for awhile is a chance to get film developed, update the website, do banking, mail postcards and a zillion other little things that come up. The day is the same blustery day it has been with sun breaking through clouds again and again.

Day 35. - Oppem. Tuesday, June 12 - 2001

We left euven late morning after having a final breakfast with our friends. It was a scenic day in the Belgium countryside as we criss-crossed our way circuitously, seeing what might be some of the prettiest countryside since we've arrived in Europe. We met an interesting man who raises carrier pigeons and eventually found our way to Oppem where we were given a warm place to stay at the Korean Presbyterian Church. We had interesting conversation with Pastor Jeon and Kim, the caretaker.

Day 36. - Oppem. Wednesday, June 13 - 2001

We spent the whole day at the African Museum in Tervuren. After having a late lunch in the cafeteria, we realized it was pouring rain so we did some work writing until it stopped. After a scenic drive around the grounds and a look at the picturesque town of Tervuren, we returned to the Korean Church and stayed an extra night, having decided it was too late to head towards Brussels that day.

Day 37. - Brussels. Thursday, June 14 - 2001

We arrived at the outskirts of Brussels by noon and made our way to the City Centre, a process that took all afternoon. We stopped in at the Parliament buildings and made some contacts with the Green Party as well as a French Environmental group. Arrived at a serious tourist destination - Grand Place- at precisely the time they have a light and music show - 11:00 pm. The area is filled with sidewalk cafes doing a bustling business. After a bite to eat we head back to the Jacques Brel Hostel for the night.

Day 38. - Brussels. Friday, June 15, 2001

A rather hectic day in Brussels running around but we spent an enjoyable time back in the Parliament buildings meeting with Jan and Fabien, who treated us to lunch in the dining room. Fabien and his wife were kind enough to put us up for the weekend so we made our way to their house after fortuitously meeting Fabien on the way home for a guided tour home through Brussels rush hour traffic.

Day 39. - Brussels. Saturday, June 16, 2001

We left the house as soon as breakfast was finished to get to the bicycle repair workshop where a nice fellow named Samy fixed the third gear on Marlene's bike. Then it was to the shopping mall to look for sandals for Omar. Got film developed, then went outside to do some sight seeing. Rain. So we took shelter in a beautiful restaurant by a lake where Rory, our congenial host, treated us to beer and a delicious meal. It poured most of the time we were there but we finally got a break in the weather around 9 in the evening and made our way home.

Day 40. - Brussels. Sunday, June 17, 2001

Rain all day.

Day 41. - Brussels. Monday, June 18, 2001

Packed and out of the house before 8:00 a.m. and immediately repaired to a cafe for morning coffee and croissants. Took all morning to make our way to the maison commun (city hall) where we used the phone for over an hour. Then it was to the Paraguayan Embassy to check in. Were treated to an evening in an hotel and enjoyed the luxury of our own space for the night. Hallelujiah. Thank you, Ambassador.

Day 42 - Tuesday, June 19, 2001

Checked out and made our way out of Brussels, passing first through a wonderful big park that turned into a forest and took us all day to get through on beautiful bike trails. Met an interesting man who travelled by horse through western US for four years and then were treated to coq monsieur, a Belgium novelty, at a horse training farm. Met a Spanish speaking man on the road sometime after and put our tent up in his yard. We passed a congenial evening with he and his wife and neighbour.

Day 43 - Ittres Wednesday, June 20, 2001

The weather has turned lovely two days in a row and we pass through beautiful farm country. Stopped at a castle where a documentary was being filmed. Met Lieve in the afternoon, a wonderful woman who invited us in for something to drink which turned into something to eat, then a place to stay. We enjoyed a trip to a local supermarket where Omar finally got his sandals, then dinner with Lieve's two sons.

Day 44 - Ecaussinnes, Belgium. Thursday, June 21, 2001

Another beautiful day in the country. Saw the world renowned ascenseur which is a unique way of transporting boats, a variation on the Panama Canal. Made the acquaintance of Olivier, who was enjoying a break from digging himself a swimming pool in the backyard with friends. We were given a warm welcome and immediately invited for beer, food and a place to stay. While Oli drove into Brussels to a music festival with friends, we visited the local scuba diving lake where we enjoyed dinner courtesy of Philip and his wife, friends of Oli. Philip took us for a night ride in the boat to see the lake and then it was home to enjoy satellite TV.

Day 45. - Maurage. Friday, June 22, 2001

Spent an enjoyable time in Ecaussinnes seeing Chateau de les Folies, the church and then en route again. Stopped in at Maurage where a street festival brocante was happening. Fell into conversation with Yvonne and ended up staying at her place. We met her daughter and spent a nice evening checking out the town.

France

Day 46. - Peissant, France. Saturday, June 23, 2001

Beautiful countryside again and sunburn time for Marlene. Met some bicycling enthusiasts on the road, Charles and Florence, with whom we spent the day and evening. Went sightseeing into France and nearby towns, had a wonderful rest in the hammock and recounted bicycling stories, etc.

Day 47. - Solrinnes, France. Sunday, June 47, 2001

Hot, sunny day and beautiful scenery passing through the countryside. Omar smelled the barbecue at Colleret and we entered the town to find the annual Fete des Ecoleswhere we spoke in front of the townspeople about the ecological project and enjoyed bbq. That evening we stayed with the Family Lacosse and enjoyed brochettes on the bbq and slept in the tent that was already in the back.

Day 48. - Willies, France. Monday, June 25, 2001

Another beautiful day. Were stopped on the road by a bicycling enthusiast who took some video footage and treated us to a beer. Had a delicious lunch at the home of a retired couple in Beauguies, then found a tranquil place for a siesta. Once the heat was less, we continued until late in the evening. A young man named Sebastien arranged for us to camp behind his place and fed us dinner.

Day 49. - Glageon, France. Tuesday, June 26, 2001

After a stop for coffee, Marlene walked through the trees until she found a little chapel with special water reputed to heal. Then it was a lazy afternoon by the lake (Val de Joly) where we had lunch with a group of bicyclers who were picnicking that day. Eventually we had to leave our little paradise to climb up thru the scenic countryside and then down to the town of Glageon where we were welcomed by the Family Bosquet and the Vice-Mayor Joly. A terrible windstorm in the night had us running for cover at 3:00 in the morning. Our new friends took us in and we re-set up our tent inside under cover.

Day 50. - Anor, France. Wednesday, June 27, 2001

Left Glageon and stopped in the next town of Fourmies when the rain started. We had lunch and then spent a couple hours at the cyber centre scanning photos. Unfortunately none of them were in .gif format so we wasted our time - a learning experience. When the rain looked ready to start mid evening, we stopped with Jacqueline et Pierre in Anor and were given indoor hospitality. Reminded Marlene of the grandparents farm in Manitoba.

Day 51. - Hilson, France. Thursday, June 28, 2001

We met with the Secretaire General at the Mayor's Office as well as Premier Adjoint (Vice-Mayor) Jannique who welcomed us with some incredible assistance. Lunch at Le Foyer was delicious, invaluable bicycle repair, a beautiful spot in the trees at the Cascade campground. We both took the opportunity of this stop to organize our stuff and take a break.

Day 52. - Dohis, France. Friday, June 29, 2001

We took our time leaving the campground, in time to stop for a last lunch at Le Foyer before leaving Hilson and enjoying the luxury of two bikes in perfect running order. Spent the day passing through farm country. Cows, the sounds of birds singing and very little traffic. What a luxury and what a pleasure. Had an interesting stop at the Military Museum and learned a great deal about the battles fought in the region. Saw our first fortified church in the village of Dohis and ended up spending the night in the old Petite Ecole, thanks to the Mayor and Premiere Adjoint. Enjoyed the evening with some neighbours who invited us to beer and the use of their stove to cook up some of our food. A pleasant stop.

Day 53. - Sevigny-Waleppe. Saturday, June 30, 2001

A very hot day in the countryside. In fact we had to stop for awhile in the afternoon because of the heat. Stopped at one of the many natural water fountains in the area which provide refreshing cool, clear water. Had a picnic while we took some shade and bathed. In early evening we stopped for some beer and ended up spending the night with Greg and his family. It happened to be
Day 54. - Poilcourt Sydney, France. Sunday, July 1, 2001

Another lovely day in the heat. Raided two fields of peas-what a treat. Had the pleasant coincidence of meeting our friend, Jannique, from Hilson out in the middle of nowhere bicycling with his cohorts on a 250 km day trip. Were given refreshments by a couple in Le Thoul. Stopped for the night in Poilcourt where we were graciously welcomed by the Mayor-set up our tent in the yard and enjoyed the most amazing showers since our trip began. Definitely the best washroom yet.

Day 55. - Reims, France. Monday, July 2, 2001

Our first stop was in Bourgogne for coffee and a quick chat with the Mayor. Then it was into Reims, a historic city, where we were given lunch with the sisters at Ma Maison. They found us a billet for the night at the Clarisse Monastery. Had our first look at the stunning and vast cathedral, checked in at the Mayor's office, dinner at Ma Maison and then driven to the hill at Clarisse by 4 cars. How do we manage to haul 150 kilos of stuff when it takes 4 cars to transport us and our bikes and gear? Drank our first bottle of champagne thanks to Anne and her friends. Yum.

Day 56. - Reims, France. Tuesday, July 3, 2001

Reims is the hub of the champagne district. Opened our second bottle of champagne in front of the cathedral and took photos after meeting with the Minister of Traffic at the Mayor's office.

Day 57. - Reims, France. Wednesday, July 4, 2001

Omar worked in the yard at Clarisse for a couple of hours while Marlene got caught up on her sleep. Had lunch at Ma Maison and spent a leisurely afternoon relaxing in the shade of the lovely estate. Got caught up on our writing, then dinner and back home.

Day 58. - Reims, France. Thursday, July 5, 2001

Use of the internet at the College across from Clarisse. A hot, sweaty day in the city. Omar and Marlene went their separate ways for a couple hours - a rarity - Omar to the gym and Marlene to the shops ! The last supper at Ma Maison with Marlene giving the seniors a little speech to thank them for the welcome. Then home by curfew of 8 :30. Battening down the hatches as an impressive and scary electrical storm hits Reims, lasting until well into the wee hours.

Day 59 - Villedommange. Friday, July 6, 2001.

Entering into real champage estates, we began a round of tasting at Sacy, a picturesque town where we also met a young couple who treated us to a beer as well. Mixing drinks was probably not a great idea because we required a little nap in the coolness of the town's fountain grottos (which i found out was where the women used to collect to wash clothes) to sober up. Marlene walked up the steep staircase to the town church where, as is the custom, a service is held once a month. Not having learned our lesson, we continued sampling champagne along the route until one generous vintner gave us a bottle for the road. We stopped at the nearest grape field and finished it off. What a hoot. Marlene put her bike in a bog and had to be rescued. A bit in our cups, we arrived at the next town, hosed down the bike and then looked for a place to stay. The town priest took us in as a rainstorm began.

Day 60 - Villedommange. Saturday, July 7, 2001.

We were up early to breakfast with the nice pastor who enjoyed practising his Portuguese with Omar. And then off again by 8 :30 a.m. The steep grade out of town had us pushing our bikes with lots of rests and, just as we got to the top, a downpour commenced that didn't stop for the next couple hours. We walked to a scenic 12th century church just up the road and then back to where the bikes were covered. Something had to be done. Marlene began speaking with a passing motorist who offered to take the travelers to shelter, which turned out to be an empty house that they could use for the day ! What luxury. Florence turned out to be a vintner and the house for the use of his workers during the harvest season. We had been wanting to see a tour of a winery and now we got to see the whole process right to the caves where the bottles are stored. Then it was a degustation at the wine-tasting room where we tasted a bottle of his delicious champagne. A ride home in his brand new BMW, an experience in itself (satellite computer, etc) and then a chance to cook our own dinner and enjoy having our own space for one night.

Day 61 - Cuchery. Sunday, July 8, 2001.

This part of France was a battlefield in WW1 and we stopped at our first military cemetery around noon at the Bouilly Cross Roads. Most of the graves were of young men under 30 years old. A tragic loss of life. We were to visit two other cemeteries during the day, the last housing both French and German soldiers. In Cuchery that evening, we were ready for a rest. Stopped to talk to a bicycling enthusiast who put us up in the office of his family's manufacturing concern and provided a snack supper.

Day 62 - Reuilly. Monday, July 9, 2001.

Out before 7 :00 a.m. and the start of the work day. Lots of hills and valleys again today. In Dormans we were treated to lunch by the Mayor and then continued on, trying to stay in the pretty valley by the Marne River. All day long we saw trains zooming to Paris along the river. We stopped for awhile at a picnic spot by a boat lift, and then followed a cow path a long ways til it opened into a village, finally stopping at a fountain grotto to cool off in a delightful little village called Souvigny, helped by some shandy provided by the good woman across the street. She insisted that the water at these grottos is potable in spite of signs to the contrary, so Marlene took a chance and filled her jug. So far, so good. Got a bag of delicious berries and ate them in the shade of some trees and then siestaed for awhile, a nice break from the heat. In the next town of Reuilly we set up our tents in the spacious yard of the Mayor and his wife where we had a lovely view of the valley.

Day 63 - Chezy Sur Marne. Tuesday, July 10, 2001

Enjoyed a nice breakfast with our hosts, who showed us pictures of the grandchildren and their appearance in the Bastille Day Parade a year or so before. Then it was off again in the heat of the morning. By the time we got to Chezy Sur Marne the raindrops were starting to fall. We put our bikes under cover and then were driven to the home of the Premiere Adjointe who put her thinking cap on and found us a place to stay in the large community hall close by.

Day 64 - Paris. Wednesday, July 11, 2001

Got the gears adjusted at the atelier around the corner and then it was to the train station to catch the 10 :01 to Paris. When the train stopped we worked to get the two bikes and trailer on board before it started again. It was Marlene's first train ride in Europe and quite exciting. An hour or so later, we were at Gare Est and, after orienting ourselves, looked for a place to eat. We took our freshly prepared baguette submarines to the nearest park and had a picnic with wine. It wasn't long after that we met a homeless woman who told us she had been living on the street for two years, sleeping every night in the train station. And then something happened that was probably inevitable from the beginning. Marlene and Omar lost each other on the streets of Paris ...

Day 65-102 - Paris, France.Sunday, August 19, 2001

Through the wonder of internet, the travellers reconnected online, Omar in Barcelona, Spain after a journey via plane, train and bicycle. After a hiatus of 25 days, the pair resumed the ecoadventure with Omar returning to Paris on August 5th.

Paris is a very distracting city and it required several days of rest, relaxation and readjustment before the Project was ready for action again. Marlene and Omar met with reps from Rando-Cycle, MDB Bicycle Advocacy, had an interview with the Ambassador of Paraguay, Ruben Bareiro Saguier, also an internationally acclaimed poet, and did some street promotion of the project.

Both laptops were stolen in Paris. Luckily, neither computer was new and, ironically, were not functioning at the moment. However, they were due to be repaired and now the continuation of the writing will require a new approach. A side benefit is that Omar is now carrying less weight on the bikes and has streamlined the cargo considerably.

Day 103 - Monday, August 20, 2001

When Omar was growing up in Paraguay, his link to the outside world was listening to short wave broadcasts from the BBC or RFI (Radio France International). Today he had the pleasure of meeting a man whom he had listened to on the radio as a youngster, Spanish broadcaster from RFI, Enrique Atolan. RFI is a huge and impressive edifice servicing 19 languages in the world.

Day 104 - Tuesday, August 21, 2001

An incredibly beautiful day in Paris. The plan was to go to Bois de Bologne but the pair never arrived. Too many distractions along the way and opportunities to promote the project to people out and about. Setting up the project display and handing out flyers is a great way to meet people from all over the world.

Day 105 - Wednesday, August 22, 2001

Time to do some work on the Project flyers, creating them in four languages to accomodate the variety of people enjoying Paris.

Day 106 - Thursday, August 23, 2001

More discovery of Paris running errands. Market day. Out all evening talking to people about the project.

Day 107 - Friday, August 24, 2001

Umpteenth visit to bike repair shop for Omar's bike. Trip to printers to get material produced for project.

Italy

Friday, September 8, 2001 - Rome, Italy

The Ecoadventures team took the night train out of Paris on the 31st and are now in Rome. The weather is beautiful and the city interesting. Omar speaks some rudimentary Italian so is managing to get by but it's a challenge for Marlene. Notions she had that her Spanish might prove to be transferable have bitten the dust.

The pair camped out for the first few nights, breaking out the tent and sleeping bags for the first time in several weeks. Rome appears to be a dry place and the countryside is brown with the same kind of growth one finds in the Okanagan of British Columbia.

The city itself is a surprise - a mixture of old and new. Modern Italian architecture combined with ruins of Roman antiquity. Tons of motorcycles. And a serious devotion to pasta. The supermarket had two long, full aisles just of different kinds of pasta, then another one for pasta sauces! Not kidding. And, come to think of it, the only restaurant seen so far besides pizza and pasta is Chinese. Hmmm.

The pair are considering staying longer in Rome to get to know the city better so will update with further reports. The Ecoadventures postcard is going over well.

Friday, August 31 - Saturday, September 8, 2001 - Rome, Italy

Our first astonishing sight was of the Colosseum and surrounding grounds of the Forum and other Roman ruins. Amazingly, these extensive archaeological finds were buried beneath dirt for hundreds of years before someone discovered the tips of buildings, and the rest was uncovered. The scope of the Colosseum and other buildings is grand. As one passes through the city - always easily and quickly done by bike - other architectural discoveries abound. Vatican City is wonderful as well. The heat was very welcome and it was a pleasure to discover the city in the week we spent at the campground and then at a pensione in the heart of the city.

Gelato stands are everywhere. Motorcycles are the norm and it is normal to see streets lined with parked cycles instead of cars. Political graffiti on every wall. Bike paths are unheard of but in spite of the high speeds of the cars and cycles, the drivers are quite considerate of bicyclers.

We considered staying longer in Rome but the process of trying to find an apartment was cumbersome - the phones defied use and the language barrier was a strong deterrent. So one morning we biked to the train station a couple blocks away and climbed aboard. Although Italian roads are not bike-friendly at all, the trains, surprisingly enough, have special cars for bikes. So we were comfortably ensconced for our trip north towards Tuscany.

Saturday, September 8 - Island of Elba, Italy

A chance encounter with Nathan, from England, led to us joining forces and detouring to the island of Elba, a popular tourist destination off the west coast of Italy. Nathan was also travelling by bike and our first order of business was to take the scenic and delightful ferry across the sea. On arrival it was a stop at the supermarket for provisions and then a picnic at a high viewpoint with the vista of the sea below. By the time the travellers left the spot, it was pitch dark and only Nathan's high-powered front light guided the bicyclers down the hairpin turns to the seaside campground where they set up for the night.

Nathan enjoyed an early morning swim but by the time Marlene got there the surf had strengthened and she came out covered in seaweed, having given the handyman a scare when a wave caught her as she was coming into shore. But all ended well after a hot shower. Breakfast at the same picnic viewpoint and then a business arrangement as Marlene sold her tent to Nathan who went off to run an errand with plans to meet on the way to the beach and, if that failed, a backup plan to meet at Lacona. It wasn't to be. The first spot didn't exist except on the map and Lacona proved to be perched so high up the mountain that despite a gruelling afternoon pushing the bikes up the seemingly perpendicular mountain in the heat, the Ecoadventures pair never made it to Lacona, having taken a wrong route along the way and finding themselves in the town of Schioparelli early evening. They never did see Nathan again (Nathan, if you read this, drop us an email to let us know how you made out) but found a lovely tenting spot right on the beach.

The pair woke up the next morning to a violent windstorm that had them first battening down the hatches and then packing up to leave. About the time the bikes were all packed and loaded to go the wind stopped, the sun came out and the pair's plans to leave the island seemed somewhat precipitous. However, after completing some long awaited errands, they boarded the ferry again and then took the train to Carmaglia where they got on the bikes until dark and took refuge in the relative luxury of an agritourismo pensione, where the patrona treated us to spaghetti and a bottle of homemade wine.

Day 125, Tuesday, September 11, 2001 - Genova, Italy

The pair watched the spectacular scenery of the western Italian coast from the train window as they sped through Livorno to Genova. It was already early evening when the pair left the train station on bikes and joined the incredible traffic in this busy city. A tent fair above the rocky shore drew them with displays of socialist and communist rhetoric as well as restaurants and merchandise. Another tent fair was happening in the old part of the city so the pair headed in that direction, finding the old city to be a maze of extremely narrow streets that, in the dark of night, seemed dangerous and seedy. The tent fair was a welcome change and the pair ate their first meal since morning, sitting on a bench with the bikes parked alongside.

At some point, Marlene noticed her backpack missing from the bike carrier. The pair took off on bikes and found the perpetrators seated 50 feet away, going through the contents. They fled, dropping the bag, with Omar in hot pursuit of the four youths. Fortunately, the most important items were still in the bag, the passport and journals of the trip! By the time the police came and a denuncia was made at the police station it was almost midnite. The pair decided to leave town and slept the night at the train station until the morning train picked them up and deposited them in Albenga, Italy.

Day 126-127, Wednesday/Thursday, September 12 - 13, 2001 - Albenga, Italy

A delightful little town, hot and picturesque. It was still morning and the pair investigated the environs and decided to stay, taking a rustic bungalow in a campground on the water. Fully equipped with kitchen and outside patio, the situation was perfect and the pair settled in for a relaxing sojourn. Having heard about the devastating news of the terrorist attack in the US, the order of business that evening was to find a bar with CNN and get caught up on the news.

Day 128, Friday, September 14, 2001 - Andora, Italy

Sick of trains, the pair take to the road by bike and discover the Italian Riviera at first hand. Breathtaking scenery and lovely roads along the Mediterranean where the hills up and down keep them busy but the heat and lovely town perched up the mountains make up for the challenging bicycling. A kind campground operator allows the couple to tent by the sea and they spend a pleasant evening enjoying the stars and the moon shining on the water.

Day 129, Saturday, September 15, 2001 - Alma di Tagglia, Italy

A wonderfully beautiful day along the Italian Riviera passing through Cervo and San Bartolemew and finally stopping for the night in a churchyard where the tall grass provided a comfortable place to tent.

Day 130, Sunday, September 16, 2001 - Vintemiglia, Italy

Our goal to reach this border town was finally attained after a full day on the bikes along the Mediterranean. But a snarly campground owner had the pair bicycling right through and finding a congenial spot outside of town.

France

Day 131, Monday, September 17, 2001 - Roquebrune Cap Martin

Bicycled into France - yay!! And into the lovely city of Menton, a clean and well-maintained oasis that charmed the pair enough to stay for awhile. Unfortunately, that day saw rain for the first time in months so it was into a coffee shop for cover. By the time it was finished and the sun came out again, it was evening and, aiming for Monaco, the pair landed instead in the city of Roquebrune where they found a wonderful pensione with a stunning view of the Mediterranean. A terrace outside their room provided a lovely view of the lights of the city as well as the ships on the horizon. The congenial owner and her parents took good care of the travellers and even allowed them to stay the afternoon so they could visit the area. Marlene walked up 200 perpendicular steps to reach the Vieux Village where she took a tour of the chateau and fort and then made her way back down.

Monaco

Day 132, Tuesday, September 18, 2001 - Monte Carlo, Monaco

Scarcely a half hour drive from where we spent the night, we pedalled into Monaco with much excitement. The streets were pristine and the wealth evident in the elegant shops lining the main streets of town. The architecture was lovely and the view of The Casino a feast for the eyes. But a wrong turn down a verboten street had the pair stopped by the police where requests for identification were made and a rather huge kafuffle for the crime of riding the bikes where they were supposed to be walked.

The couple found a relatively economical hotel but the rain prevented any further forays to view the town. Omar found the police presence onerous and the decision was made to leave town on the morrow.

France

Day 133, Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - Saint Jean Cap Ferrat, France

An absolutely lovely bicycle trip along the French Riviera but place to put up a tent impossible to find. In the early evening the couple meet the owner of an empty building and are placed in an apartment for the night after spending a pleasant evening drinking tea and a local pear cider. The apartment terrace had a breathtaking view of the bay and it was a pleasure to watch the lights of Nice across the bay, the moon and the lights of the cruise ship anchored in the harbour.

Day 134, Thursday, September 20, 2001 - Nice, France

Nice wasn't far and the couple called in to visit Sue, a British woman whom they had met in the coffee shop in Menton. It was a gruelling push up the vertical hill to her home but the view and the pleasant welcome was worth it. After a relax, the pair went for a reconnoitre of the city, found a beach and then returned home for dinner and wine. A delightful stop.

Day 136, Saturday, September 22, 2001 - Nice, France

All good things must come to an end. The pair found themselves repeatedly ending up at the Nice Airport and, taking it as a sign, checked the flights. Marlene returned to Canada and Omar stayed behind.

THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO ASSISTED WITH THIS LEG OF THE ROUND THE WORLD ECOADVENTURE.